You can’t help but stroll around the Parthenon and the Acropolis and dream about those who have walked there before you.

Sights in Athens have a special importance, more than in most other places in the world. They are firsthand histories of democracy, Western civilization and philosophy. You can’t help but stroll around the Parthenon and the Acropolis and dream about those who have walked there before you.

The ancient and the modern merge in Athens in ways that are fascinating and sometimes overwhelming. Pollution clings to the stones of the Acropolis and obscures views over Athens. Cars belch among ranks of concrete high-rises. But then you turn down a cobbled lane and discover vine-swathed tavernas and bazaars teeming with dusty treasures. Or perhaps you will encounter a sleek café, art gallery or an outdoor cinema that serves ouzo under the stars. Athens has been reinventing itself; the results could not be more charming.

The Athens metro routes are extensive, and the stations dazzle with marble and antiquities. Congested Athens downtown streets have been turned into pedestrian walkways, greatly reducing smog and noise. Hotels, museums and archaeological sites have been revamped. Gentrified districts such as Gazi and Psiri host cafés, clubs and chic restaurants which even boast smoke-free sections.

Greeks are proud of their renovated capital and Athens should remain prized for both its ancient charms and its modern makeover.

When to travel to Athens

After the Olympics in 2004, Athens has become a year-round city-break destination, but travel from March to November if you want guaranteed sunshine. Avoid the holiday period around the 15th August when local tourism reaches its peak.